Info Sheets

Pool Heating

A swimming pool is one of the largest single purchases a home owner can make. It therefore makes sense that it should be used as much as possible, especially when it has to be maintained and cared for even when not in use. Consequently some form of heating is being considered by many as much of a necessity for their pool as a pump or filter.

Deciding on which heating option would best suit your needs is sometimes the hardest decision when heating your pool.

The decision on which heating option would best suit your needs depends on several factors:

- How often do you intend to use your pool?
- Do you only use it at the weekends?
- Do you plan on using it the whole year round?
- How big is your pool?


There are basically three different forms of additional heating for your pool:

Electric Heat Pumps
Gas Heaters
Solar Heating Systems


Remember: Using a pool blanket will increase the benefits of any kind of pool heating!

Algae

Many pool owners have problems with algae from time to time. What is it and what can be done to get rid of it? What can I do to avoid the problem recurring?

The following might help answer these questions and help dispel some of the misunderstandings about the how and why of the appearance of algae in swimming pools.


Algae, what is it?

Algae is a small plant growth which can take on many forms and is closely related to seaweed which itself is a form of algae. As in the case of seaweed, it can come in many shapes and sizes, but for the most part algae found in swimming pools is very small and resembles moss. These tiny microscopic plants feed on nutrients contained in the water (phosphates). The algae spores, or seeds if you like, are either already present in the water, transported to the pool by wind or are attached to other debris which finds its way into the pool.

The algae plant requires only air, sunlight, water and a good supply of nutrients to grow. They normally grow most profusely in the shallowest water and are usually found in areas around benches and steps.


How do we get rid of it?

By removing one of the elements mentioned above, i.e. air, sunlight, water or nutrients, the algae will not grow. The simplest way of ridding your pool of algae is to remove the nutrients required for algae growth, e.g. by using a phosphate eliminator (starver). Shock dosing of the pool will usually overcome the problem by starving the algae of its nutrients, causing it to die. However, they are extremely hardy little organisms and in some cases algae becomes so resistant to the normal sanitiser that treatment with an Algaecide is required. There are many of these available and regular use can work wonders.

Once algae dies, the residue will need to be brushed from the pool surface so it can be removed by the filtration process or vacuumed out, leaving the pool clean and clear again.


Keeping the pool algae-free

Maintaining correct water balance and sanitiser levels and not allowing the pool to ?go off?, along with occasional shock dosing will usually keep algae under control. Add to this the regular use of an algaecide and starver, and you can be sure the pool remains clean and free from algae. Maintenance doses of algaecide and starver can pay for themselves because of the need of less chlorine.

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Electric Heat Pumps

Heat pumps are relatively new to the swimming pool market. However, the technology incorporated in their operation has been used in the air conditioning and refrigeration industries for many years. Due to their high efficiency and relative ease of installation, they are quickly becoming popular as a way to heat swimming pools.

Heat pumps operate rather like a refrigerator in reverse ? using the air surrounding it in order to gather heat for transfer. Heat is gathered from air drawn through the unit, and transferred to the refrigerant carried in pipes through the heat pump. Then the temperature is increased by compressing the refrigerant. The heat is then transferred to the pool water contained in adjacent piping.


Advantages

The major advantage of an electric heat pump is that they are extremely energy efficient. In simple terms, the heat pump consumes very little energy by way of electricity to operate, compared to the amount of energy it produces in the form of heat. For example, if a heat pump consumes 2 kW of electricity it will produce 6 to 10 kW of heat energy. This efficiency ratio is referred to as a C.O.P. (coefficient of performance).


Size

Heat pumps can be obtained in a number of sizes ranging from 2 kW to 200 kW output. However, most heat pumps for domestic pools range in sizes from 10 kW to 60 kW. The one to suit your application will depend on careful consideration of the following factors:

? Location - local climatic conditions largely influence selection

? Temperature - your choice, however as a guide
- exercise and/or fun pool 24 to 28 degrees Celsius
- therapeutic exercise 28 to 35 degrees Celsius
- spa pool 34 to 38 degrees Celsius

? Size of pool - determine the pool volume by multiplying the surface area in
m2 by the average depth (including wading areas and spa). Select the appropriate unit for the volume of the pool

? Shading & exposure to wind - these can effect the heat losses and gains of heated water

? Pool position - indoor or outdoor

? Swimming season - do you want to swim all year round or just extend the season?


Installation

Heat pumps can be installed indoors or outdoors. However, before deciding on the heater?s position, consideration should be given to air flow and ventilation. The heat pump uses a fan to draw in air across a coil and then expels it. If positioned indoors, allow for this ventilation.

For outdoor installation the heater can be positioned at ground level (50mm plinth preferred), mounted on a wall or even sat on a roof.

Units can be included as part of the pump/filter network or plumbed as a separate heating circuit

Average size domestic installations generally require a single phase electrical connection. Larger pools may require three phase power.

Where available off-peak connection is advantageous to further reduce running costs.


Things to look for:

All heat pumps should have some form of flow control device to prevent the unit operating without adequate water flow.

Heat pumps are all thermostatically controlled. However, these controllers may range from analogue dial type units to micro-processed digital devices. All these types produce the same result, which is to control the pool temperature to your desired setting. An advantage of the digital type is that the settings are displayed more clearly.

Naturally not all heat pumps are the same. Some may have features that others don?t have. Some manufacturers provide additional controls using time clock and/or pump interlock to ensure the most economical operation of the heat pump.

Warning:
When heat pumps are used on salt chlorinated pools, care should be taken to ensure the production of chlorine is adjusted to suit either the spa or pool, as excessive salt and/or chlorine levels can damage internal components. This is particularly important when operating for extended periods during heat-up. Failure to do so may void your warranty.

Gas Heaters

Gas heating can quickly heat your pool to a comfortable temperature for swimming whenever it is required. This means you can extend your swimming season for as long as you like, thus increasing the return of what was probably a fairly large investment in your pool.

Gas heating provides the flexibility to heat your pool or spa in a short amount of time. No matter what the conditions, your gas heater can bring the water temperature up to your desired level quickly and quietly.

Gas heaters have an input rating which is expressed in Megajoules (MJ), which is a measure of fuel energy consumption, and an energy output rating expressed in Kilowatts (kW).

The smaller heaters are in the range of 60 to 100 MJ, larger heaters range through 250 up to 400 MJ. The output of heaters will range from 15 to over 100 kW.


What size heaters do you choose?

Selecting the right size heater depends on a number of factors: the size of the pool and/or spa, the maximum temperature you would like to achieve, and the heat-up time required.

When determining the size of your pool, consideration must also be given to whether or not the heater is required to heat the spa as well as the pool. Most people want to be able to heat their spa quickly and to a much higher temperature than the pool, so a heater should be selected with this in mind. If it is only the pool to be heated, remember, it does not really matter if it takes a little longer and the temperature rise will be less, so perhaps a smaller heater could be considered. The points to remember are:

- Amount of water to be heated
- The temperature you wish to achieve
- How long you are prepared to wait


Indoor or outdoor installation?

Gas heaters come in a number of configurations to suit particular installations. Be sure the heater you select is the one most suitable for your requirements. I.e. heaters to be installed indoors require special fluing and many require additional ventilation specifically designed to suit the size and type of heater to be used. Heaters designed to be placed outdoors should not be used inside without the appropriate flue or the manufacturer?s consent.

Safety note: Chemicals must not be stored in the same room as a gas heater!
Spa blowers must be located a minimum of 1.5m away from a gas heater!

While most gas heaters these days are designed and constructed to last a long time in all conditions, consideration should always be given to protecting the heater from the elements. Heaters should always be installed on a stable, non-combustible base, preferably a minimum of 50mm above ground level.


Cost Effective and Convenient

Gas pool and spa heaters are cost efficient and relatively inexpensive as far as running costs are concerned if they are used for extension of the pool system or as a boost to a solar heating system. They provide the convenience of being instantly available whenever you decide to heat the pool or spa. By utilising thermostatic control, the temperature of your pool can be maintained at the level you select, despite the weather conditions. Generally LPG gas heaters are not practical for heating pools due to the cost of LPG and the frequent need for changing the bottles. However, they can be practical for spas.

Heating costs:
9 x 5 m outdoor pool with cover, heated from 18 degrees
Initial heat-up cost to 28 degrees $ 42.00
Daily running cost $ 8.50


Warning:
When gas heaters are used on salt chlorinated pools, care should be taken to ensure the production of chlorine is adjusted to suit either the spa or the pool, as internal components could be damaged by excessive salt or chlorine levels. This is particularly important when operating for extended periods during heat-up.

Solar Pool Heating

Installing Solar Pool Heating can increase the use of your pool by up to four months. By using the heating energy of the sun, the cost to heat a pool in this way is very economical. The type of solar system may vary, however, the basic principle remains the same. Pool water is circulated through a series of tubes (the collector) usually mounted on the roof, where heat is absorbed and the heated water returned to the pool. The collector can either be of EPDM Rubber or PVC/TPR material and is usually supplied in multiple tube ?strips?. The amount of heat absorbed and the ultimate increase in pool water temperature depends on several factors, which should be considered when deciding on a solar heating system for your pool. Naturally, the major influence on the effectiveness of any solar system is its exposure to the sun, therefore the location or positioning of the collector is of utmost importance. But also the size of the collector, the number of tubes per m2, the control system, and the size of the pool are to be considered.


Location

Collectors (other than those on flat roofs) should ideally be placed on north facing roofs. Deviation of this is ok as long as the collector area is increased accordingly. The collector should be located so as to avoid shade from trees, neighbouring houses, etc. for at least six hours every day.

Remember, the following will all effect the size and location of your solar system:

? Pool surface area
? Shade on collector or roof
? Roof orientation and slope
? Wind protection
? Colour of roof and pool
? Local climate


Size of Collector

The amount of collector used in your solar system will have a major influence on the effectiveness of the system. It is recommended that in general a minimum collector area equal to 80% of the pool surface area should be installed. Only in ideal conditions a minimum of 60% will be sufficient. If used in conjunction with a solar blanket these figures can be less.


Solar Controllers

As nobody can guarantee at what time of the day the sun will actually shine, time clocks are of little use in controlling solar heating systems. What is needed is a temperature sensing control device. These units will operate the pump system only when heat can be gained. Circulating water through a cold collector will cool the pool faster than it can be heated.


Pumping Requirements

To circulate water through the solar system you can choose to use either the existing pump or provide a dedicated pump. If the existing pump is to be used it must meet the following conditions:

? The required rate of turnover of the pool water for filtration purposes shall be maintained
? The operating pressure of the filter shall not be increased above the manufacturer?s maximum pressure by addition of the solar circuit
? The pump shall have sufficient capacity to handle the static head and friction losses introduced by the addition of the collector circuit.


The average domestic solar installation requires a minimum flow rate of around 100 to 200 litres per minute to operate effectively. This means that in most circumstances a dedicated solar pump would be required.

Always check that the minimum design flow rate of the collector is met when selecting your pump. This flow rate will vary with the diameter of the tubing used.

The circulated water needs to be strained to avoid blocking up of the collector with dirt and debris, so when using a dedicated pump, some form of strainer must be provided.


Using a pool blanket will increase the benefits of any kind of pool heating!

Filtration

If the pump is the heart of the pool, the filter is the lungs.

A swimming pool must be filtered to remove insoluble particles and to produce clear water. Clear water is desirable not only for aesthetic reasons, but for hygiene and safety.

The quality of filtration depends on the size of the filter medium. The finer the medium, the higher the purity of water obtained.

Pool water filtration is a balance between water quality and water quantity. Either quality or quantity must be sacrificed to enhance the other. The finer the filter medium, the faster the increase in pressure across the filter bed, and the more frequent the need for backwashing or filter replacement.

There are two types of filters in common use in the marketplace today, these are High Rate Sand (Multi Media) and Cartridge filters.

High Rate Sand (Multi Media) Filter

The high rate sand filter is the most commonly used filter on both domestic and commercial pools.

The high rate sand filter has a grade of sand ? either 16:30 or the finer grading of 18:30. Water is forced through the sand bed at such a high rate that a form of mechanical flocculation takes place. The electrical charges are literally scrubbed off allowing the dirt particles to agglomerate and form larger particles. On the next pass through the filter these larger particles are collected.

One of the benefits of the sand filter is its simplicity. When the bed of sand is clogged with dirt, the pressure inside will register on a gauge which indicates the need to flush it out or backwash.

This means switching off the pump and turning the valve to ?backwash?. When the pump is switched back on, the flow of water is reversed and washes up through the sand bed and removes the dirt. After backwashing the valve can be returned to the ?filter? position for normal operation.

The dirty water from the filter is normally discharged into a sewer gully or it can be used for irrigation.

Typical sand media will normally remove particles down to about 10 ? 15 microns in size. The sand in the filter will normally only need changing approximately every 3 to 5 years, though this will depend on factors such as pool usage, size, etc.

New media such as glass beads or Zeolite will remove particles below 5 microns, giving the pool that extra sparkle and making water care easier.

Zeolite is an effective medium but because of its porous nature (volcanic origin) it absorbs bacteria and therefore requires an annual salt bath to cleanse the medium. And even then, over time it will loose its efficacy. Zeolite needs to be replaced approximately every 5 to 10 years.

Crushed glass is becoming the medium of choice, due to its efficacy and non- porosity which doesn?t require acid cleansing. Being made of finely crushed recycled glass, it is also a good alternative for the environmentally conscious person. Its life cycle is likely to be indefinite.

Catridge Filter

The cartridge filtering medium is a concertina shaped cartridge providing a large filter surface within a relatively small housing. This large filter area means the filter cycle, or period between cleansing, is increased.

Unlike other filters, there is no provision for backwashing. When the cartridge is clogged, it must be removed for cleaning. Filter cartridges are generally hosed off. However, those used in a heated pool or spa may need to be soaked in cleaning solution.

One of the advantages of the cartridge filter is that the method of cleaning makes it ideal for use in unsewered areas or where disposal of waste water is a problem.

The filtering ability of this type of filter is somewhere between sand and other filtering media and will remove dirt particles down to approximately 8-10 microns in size.

Cartridge filters are typically used in spas and above ground pools owing to their compact size and often lower initial cost. The disadvantage is that the cartridge will need to be replaced about every 5 years.


Always refer to the manufacturer?s instructions for installation and maintenance of filters!

Ionisers

Background

The use of copper and silver ions for purifying water has been practised for centuries. The ancient Greeks found that water kept in silver containers was mysteriously purified and that algae didn?t grow in copper water pots.

Extensive research into the action of metals in the purification of water was not undertaken until the late 19th century. This research resulted in the development of the ?Katadyne? water treatment process. This required that water be passed through various porous materials impregnated with silver. Some of the metal would become ionised and pass into the water as positive ions. As a result the water was purified.

It was discovered that over time ?Katadyne? porous filters became less effective and were difficult to clean. This resulted in the introduction of the ?Electro-Katadyne? process, which involved an electric current being passed between silver coated sand beds and resulted in a better level of control over the ionising process.

The modern ioniser uses the same basic principle as the ?Electro-Katadyne? process, except that the sand beds have been replaced with copper/silver electrodes and the ionisation control is accomplished with modern electronics.


Ionisation

The modern ioniser consists of two parts; the electrode assembly consisting of two (or multiples of two) bars of metal usually made of an alloy of copper and silver and an electronic control unit. The electrodes are usually installed in the swimming pool?s filtration system. The control unit supplies the necessary extra low voltage across the electrodes. The resultant current produces positively charged ions of the constituent metals which are carried into the pool and become part of the chemistry of the pool water.

Silver ions act as a disinfectant and copper ions act as an algaecide. Although these ions kill algae and bacteria and provide a measurable residual, they do require an oxidiser to be present for the oxidisation of organic wastes. Most manufacturers recommend the use of chlorine. But non-chlorine systems are also available.


Residual maintenance and water balance

Follow the manufacturer?s instructions to prevent the possibility of discolouration of the pool surface. Maintain pH and the copper residual within the manufacturer?s recommended levels. Consult with the manufacturer to check if the equipment is suitable for the desired application.

The ionisation of copper/silver alloy is a means of purifying pool/spa water, not chemically balancing it. Therefore normal procedures should be adopted to correctly balance the water!

Most ionisers still need a residue of chlorine or other sanitisers but at a lower level. The ECOsmarte system is the only unit on the market that does not need a chlorine residual. It does this by having an oxygenation process that replaces the need for chlorine, resulting in a truly chemical-free system.

Salt Chlorinators

Salt Chlorinators, or if you like, chlorine generators, are an alternative means of sanitising your pool with chlorine using the process of electrolysis.

The electrolysis process is achieved by passing salt water solution through an electrolytic cell which converts sodium chloride (salt) in the water into chlorine gas which, when dissolved in water, becomes sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine). So you are in fact producing your own chlorine to sanitise the pool.


The Cell

The cell usually consists of a plastic housing containing the electrodes, made up of an anode and a cathode made from or coated with exotic metals like platinum, titanium and aridium. The cell and electrodes may differ in size and configuration depending on the brand of chlorinator. However, the principles of their operation remain the same.


Controls

Most chlorinators these days are equipped with controls to regulate the amount of chlorine produced, depending on individual requirements, and are fitted with a gauge to show the set level. Some units come with time clocks and in-built facilities for pool lights and other more sophisticated options. Remember, choose the one that best suits your requirements and budget but also consider your lifestyle and how you intend to use the pool.


Selecting a suitable unit

A number of factors will effect the selection of a salt chlorinator:

1. Size of pool or spa ? larger pools need larger chlorinators
2. Bathing load ? heavy loads consume more chlorine
3. Size of filtration system ? poor water flow will require longer running time
4. Summer water temperature ? high temperature and strong sunlight cause faster loss of available chlorine
5. self cleaning or not self cleaning cell?
6. does it have a time clock?
7. does it have a boost option?
8. does it have a pool and spa mode?


How much salt?

The amount of salt needed for the salt chlorinator to produce sufficient chlorine varies, depending on the type of chlorinator. Most models require only weak salt solutions of between 0.3% to 0.7% (3000 ppm to 7000 ppm) to effectively chlorinate the pool. These levels are between one fifth to one tenth the level of salt in sea water.

The manufacturers? recommendations should be strictly followed to avoid damage to the chlorinator and to insure adequate chlorine production!

Replacement salt is only required to replace normal consumption and loss from filter backwashing, splash-out and any overflow due to rainfall.


Maintenance

Although there are some maintenance free cells available, most brands of cells will require cleaning periodically, to remove calcium deposits which build up on the electrodes as a result of the electrolysis process. This cleaning is usually accomplished by soaking the electrodes in a weak acid solution. The manufacturers? instructions should be strictly adhered to regarding cleaning, to avoid damage to the assembly and yourself!


Other Chemical Requirements

The requirements for chemical balance are the same for electrolytic chlorination as for traditionally chlorinated pools. Total Alkalinity, pH, Calcium Hardness and chlorine levels should be checked regularly. Chlorine stabiliser (isocyanuric acid) should be added to the pool and maintained at approx. 30-50 ppm to reduce chlorine loss due to UV rays.

During periods of high bather load it may be necessary to manually supplement with sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine) to maintain correct chlorine levels if your system does not have a boost setting. Regular super chlorination or shock dosing should be carried out.

Warning:
When using salt chlorinators with gas or electric heaters and heat pumps, care should be taken to ensure the production of chlorine is adjusted to suit either the spa or pool, as the heater?s internal components can be damaged by excessive salt and/or chlorine levels! This is particularly important when operating for extended periods during heat-up. Most modern units have a pool or spa mode to simplify this.

Spa Pool Maintenance

If you own a spa pool or hot tub it is important to understand that it requires a certain amount of owner maintenance to ensure it operates properly and that the water remains clean and healthy.

The water treatment requirements for spa pools differ from those for a swimming pool because you are dealing with hot water. Hot water requires different treatment to prevent the growth of viruses, bacteria and algae.

The correct use of chemicals will maintain the water in a clean and healthy condition. The parameters that need to be regularly checked are Total Alkalinity, pH and sanitiser (chlorine or bromine) level.

It is important to test the water on a regular basis.


Changing the Water

The spa water should be changed every 3 to 4 months, or remove and replace approx. 30% or 1/3 of the volume of water every 3 to 4 weeks.


Total Alkalinity

The Total Alkalinity should be in the range of 90 to 150 ppm (parts per million). A spa or hot tub with too low TA will require constant adjustment of the pH.

To raise TA, add sodium bicarbonate in small quantities. To lower the TA, add acid (Hydrochloric Acid) in small quantities. Test in one hour.


pH Level

pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. It is important to maintain the correct pH level as it effects the action of other chemicals. The pH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Values below 7.0 are acidic, and values above 7.0 are alkaline.

Incorrect pH levels can cause poor chlorine or bromine efficiency, eye and skin irritations, corrosion of metal fittings, cloudy water and formation of scale on the pool walls and fittings. The pH should always be above 7.0 (measured at room temperature, not too hot) to avoid possible corrosion of equipment. However, it should not be higher than 7.8, as this would reduce the efficiency of the sanitiser.

If the pH level needs to be increased, add soda ash, to reduce the pH level, add acid. Wait for one hour and test again.


Special note:
Do not mix chemicals!
Do not add water to the chemicals, only add chemicals to water!


Sanitation

Sanitising your spa is essential for safe, healthy water, free of harmful micro-organisms. The most common forms of sanitiser are chlorine and bromine. Ozone may also be used, but because there can be no residual, chlorine or bromine must be used in conjunction with it. Salt Water Chlorinators must be of sufficient capacity to maintain the recommended chlorine residual.

The amount of disinfectant required depends on a number of factors, including water temperature, the frequency of use and the number of people using the spa. It is most important to always keep the sanitiser level at 2 to 3 ppm. In very hot water the sanitiser can be used up very quickly, and should be checked regularly while the spa is being used.

After heavy use of the spa or on a weekly basis, the water should be shock dosed withy chlorine or bromine. Be sure to check the level again before use.

If the spa or hot tub is not being used, add sanitiser every day to prevent contamination.


Recommended levels

? Total Alkalinity 90 to 110 ppm
? pH 7.4 to 7.6
? Chlorine 2 to 3 ppm
? or Bromine 3 to 4 ppm

It is important to note that if the right pH and sanitiser levels are maintained, viruses and bacteria should not survive in water. In terms of general hygiene, it is important to keep filter and pump clean. Clean the filter regularly and empty hair and lint from the pump as often as required.


For Safe and Enjoyable Use

? Children should be supervised at all times when either in or near the spa or hot tub
? Alcohol should not be drunk while using the spa
? Be sure the temperature does not exceed 40 degrees. An ideal range is 35 to 38 degrees
? Spa use should be restricted to approx. 20 minutes to avoid heat stress
? If you have any physical ailments you should see your doctor before using the spa or hot tub. People with heart or blood pressure problems and pregnant women should seek a doctor?s permission before use.
? Do not put your head under the water
? Store chemicals in a cool dry place, out of the reach of children

Saving Water

The average domestic swimming pool holds somewhere between 22?000 and 60?000 litres of water. This amount is usually a once-only fill quantity and from then on the pool needs only to be topped up from time to time. Savings can be made both in costs and water usage by limiting the frequency and water quantity used in topping up.

Keeping the pool properly filtered and chemically balanced are just two of the ways of ensuring against unnecessary emptying of the pool and frequent backwashing. This will help save water.

Looking after the pool is really very simple. It is a combination of adequate filtration time and correct chemical treatment.


Adequate Filtration

During the summer it is recommended that the filter should run for 8 to 10 hours a day and certainly whenever people are using the pool. Whenever the filter is operating, the surface of the water will be skimmed off, removing things like leaves and dust before they sink. To remove the dust and dirt collected by the filter, the filter must be ?backwashed?. This procedure reverses the water flow through the filter and flushes dirt down the drain. Only continue backwashing until the water in the sight glass provided, or at the drain point, is clean and clear. This should take no more than one or two minutes. Excessive backwashing can waste up to 2?000 litres of water.


Chemical Balance

You don?t have to be a scientist to correctly balance your pool. There are three basic rules to follow. First, adjust the Total Alkalinity level. Second, adjust the pH, and last, ensure the required amount of sanitiser is added either by manually dosing or via an automatic chlorinator.

By continually maintaining correct water balance the need for emptying your pool and the subsequent topping up can save thousands of litres of water annually.


Correct Water Level

Making sure the water level is only half way up the skimmer opening ensures correct skimming action and also saves water. Do not overfill your pool, it reduces the effectiveness of the skimmer and wastes water.


Covering the Pool

More and more pool owners are discovering the advantages of heating their pools. With water heated to a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius, the pool can be enjoyed for another three months at least. To reduce evaporation and the subsequent need to top up, a pool cover is a wise investment. Covers not only save water but help keeping the pool clean and reduce the energy costs by reducing heat loss. The availability of rollers for covers make it a quick and easy way of lowering costs and saving water.


Leaks

Many pools in New Zealand are now twenty or thirty years old and may be in need of attention. Make a point of thoroughly checking around the pool for damp spots. Check the plumbing for leaks around valves or pipe joiners. One drip per second can waste up to 7?000 litres of water per year. A steady dribble could waste hundreds of thousands of litres per year ? and add up to your water bill.


Safety Saves Lives and Water

Safety is one of the most important factors of swimming pool and spa ownership, particularly where small children are concerned. Whenever groups of children are in the pool, ?bombing? and ?horseplay? can get out of hand, so it is a good idea to make sure children are well supervised. By restricting this type of behaviour you not only avoid accidents but prevent water loss due to excessive splashing.

Winterising Your Pool

Don?t simply switch the filter off and forget the pool for 3 or 4 months. This is false economy because the time, effort and money needed to get the pool water correctly adjusted next season will be far more than the little needed to maintain it during winter.

A simple procedure for correctly maintaining your pool during the off season:

1.) Thoroughly backwash the filter and clean it with a recognised filter cleaner and degreaser. Ensure the skimmer basket and hair & lint pot are free of debris. Lubricate all O-rings with a silicone-based lubricant. If there isn?t a strong flow of water returning to the pool when the filter is turned on, ring your service company.

2.) Adjust the alkalinity level with bicarbonate of soda if level is below 80 to 120 parts per million (ppm)

3.) Adjust the pH to 7.2 to 7.6 by adding acid if the level is too high or soda ash if it?s too low. It?s a good idea to mix all chemicals with a full bucket of water before adding to the pool. Remember, always add the acid to the water and never in amounts more than 500 ml!

4.) Mix 500 grams of granular chlorine or 750 ml of liquid chlorine with a bucket of water and add it to the pool.

5.) Mix 750 ml to 1 litre of a long life algaecide that is specifically designed for winter and add to the pool

6.) Adjust timer to allow the filter to operate 2 to 3 hours each day.

7.) If the pool is equipped with a salt chlorinator, clean the cell with a recognised cell cleaner. Adjust the control to the ? production setting. It will be necessary to check the chlorine level in the pool for the next two weeks, to ensure that there is a constant level of 1 to 2 ppm free available chlorine at all times. The production control on the salt chlorinator may have to be adjusted to increase or decrease its output.

8.) Having carried out these procedures, it should only be necessary to check the chlorine level every 2 weeks and empty the skimmer basket if it has build up of leaves, etc.

9.) Check occasionally to ensure the water level is half way up the skimmer box opening and that the pressure gauge on the filter is not indicating backwash.

This simple procedure will ensure that your pool will be ready for the first warm days of next summer.